Island Distilling: Mexican Moonshine on the Riviera Maya
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Yesterday, the boss and I took a little field trip. Recently, we got word that Island Distilling in Xpu Ha had finally re-opened its doors for visitors. After several years of driving past the shuttered storefront, we finally got our chance to stop in and try their hooch,(Mexican Moonshine)…I mean investigate…for research purposes, of course.
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If you have driven south to Akumal or Tulum at any time in the past few years, you have surely seen the low brown building with their logo on it, just past the retorno for the Xpu Ha beaches. Things looked pretty promising when the building was renovated and painted and in the spring of 2019, the signs went up proclaiming “Island Distilling Moonshine: Tennessee Born, Mexico Distilled.”
I think we all remember what happened in 2019….
So, after weathering COVID closures and maneuvering the Mexican legal system, Robert “Smitty” Smith and his wife Teresa, have finally reopened Island Distilling to the public and are happily welcoming curious visitors and moonshine aficionados into their distillery and store.
Smitty explained proudly that they are the only moonshine distillery in the country. After many years of making moonshine as a hobby in the United States, Robert and Teresa decided to take their show on the road, all the way to the Riviera Maya! So now we can all enjoy American moonshine, made in Mexico with flavors of the Caribbean!
The History of Moonshine
The origins of moonshine are as murky as the backwoods where it was historically made, cloaked in the dark of night. Originally, the term “moonshine” was a colloquialism for “moonlight,” and it referred to any job or activity performed late at night. In the context of spirits, it came to describe the illicit distilling done under the cover of darkness to avoid detection and taxes.
Early distillation methods were rudimentary. People used what they had onhand, corn or other grains, sugar, and yeast to ferment the mash. The fermented mash was then heated and refined in a homemade “still”. The resulting clear, potent spirit was a simple, unaged whiskey known as moonshine.
In American history, moonshine became particularly notorious from 1920 to 1933, during Prohibition. The U.S. government’s ban on the manufacture, transport, and sale of alcohol turned moonshine from a homespun hobby into a hot commodity for bootleggers. These illegal operators ran “shine” across state lines, supplying speakeasies and private customers. The Prohibition era was marked by a cat-and-mouse game between the moonshiners, who developed ever more clever ways to evade the laws, and the federal agents tasked with enforcing them.
Is there Mexican Moonshine?
In every country around the world, there exists a subculture of homemade liquor production that can be labeled “moonshine”. In Russia and Poland, it’s called “samogon.” South Africans know it as “witblits,” or “white lightning,” and in Norway, it goes by “hjemmebrent.”
Mexico certainly has its own history with a number of spirits considered Mexican moonshine. Tequila at one time was considered moonshine. With its origins in the ancient fermented beverage pulque, tequila was the result of distillation methods brought in by Spanish conquistadors. The Spanish naturally wanted to keep control of the tequila production so any spirit produced outside of their bounds was considered moonshine.
Before its popularity skyrocketed in the 21st century and it became a global commodity, mezcal was considered moonshine. Often referred to as tequila´s smokey cousin, mezcal won the hearts of connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike and is now one of the most popular Mexican drinks in the world. Likewise other lesser-known. agave spirits such as sotol (illegal in Mexico until 1994), raicilla and bacanora ( illegal to manufacture until 1992) have followed closely behind, being celebrated and granted their own Domination of Origin (DOO) alongside tequila and mezcal.
Of all the Mexican spirits, Pox is the most like American moonshine. Pox is a distilled spirit made of corn, sugar cane and wheat. It has been made for centuries but has just recently been popularized. While pox is still very important in Mayan culture for its ceremonial uses it can also be found featured in upmarket bars across Mexico, the United States and in Europe.
Making Moonshine in the Riviera Maya
Making moonshine is a craft that blends simplicity with a touch of alchemy. At Island Distilling in Xpu Ha, they are making one of the simplest and most straightforward types of moonshine. There are no grains involved. Instead, locally sourced cane sugar is mixed with water to which Robert adds yeast imported from England.
The mash is then transferred to containers to begin the process of fermentation, converting sugar to alcohol. This takes about 7 days and patience is key.
Distillation is the next step. The fermented mash, now called “sugar wash,” is transferred in batches to the still and heated. Island Distilling uses a beautiful, modern stainless steel still imported from China. It features 5 copper boilerplates through which the liquid is distilled multiple times. The clear, clean spirit that comes out is moonshine.
The art of making moonshine is as much about the producer’s personal touch as it is about the ingredients and process. It’s this blend of tradition and personal expression that keeps the craft alive and evolving and you can certainly see this on display at Island Distilling.
Historically, moonshiners would use what was on hand, fruits, grains, or even tree bark, to flavor their spirits. Fortunately, Smitty and Teresa are using high-quality concentrates from the US to flavor their Mexican moonshine. Their flavors include coconut, banana, blackberry, apple pie and mango-habañero among others. One notable exception is their honey-flavored moonshine which is flavored with honey sourced just down the road from a beekeeping friend in Akumal.
Moonshine Today
With the rising interest in craft distilling, moonshine has shed its cloak of secrecy and now shares the limelight with other legitimate alcohol producers. Artisanal moonshine is now a proud staple of many small distilleries, which celebrate the spirit’s checkered past while operating within the bounds of the law.
Moonshine’s revival has made it more than just a drink, it’s a sought-after cultural experience. Distilleries like Island Distilling have become popular tourist attractions, offering tours and tastings that provide a glimpse into the distilling process. While we were there, several groups filtered through, interested in finding out more about Robert and Teresa´s Mexican moonshine.
Island Distilling is the only moonshine distillery in Mexico making American-style moonshine. If you are interested, Smitty and Teresa welcome you to learn about their history making moonshine, see the still in action, and taste the various flavors that they offer.
Historically the term “moonshine” was coined to describe any alcoholic beverage being made and distributed outside the bounds of the laws. While Robert and Teresa are still waiting for the official tax stamps from the government allowing him to solicit B2B sales (soliciting, selling wholesale and delivering to restaurants and other businesses) they do have the official green light to legally sell to retail customers and they are encouraged by the number of people who have come in out of curiosity and left as customers!
I have to admit, going in, I knew absolutely nothing about moonshine. I also went in with the preconceived notion that it was going to be a very harsh, highly alcoholic drink. I was curious, but I also had a lot of reservations. I have to say, I was genuinely surprised at how smooth and delicious these spirits are. Boozy…but GOOD!
We were happy to finally get a peak into their moonshine production and came home with seven bottles to enjoy on our own and with friends. We have already come up with several winning combinations and concoctions including one that blends Island Distilling Blackberry Moonshine with Sprite and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Oh. My.
If you would like to visit Smitty and Teresa, get a tour of the facility and learn about how they make their Mexican moonshine, Island Distilling is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 AM until 5 PM. They will be happy to walk you through the whole production process and set you up with a tasting of some of their delicious spirits. If you are feeling brave, there are 15 flavors to sample! You can also come visit Latitude 20° +/- in Puerto Aventuras where you will find them featured behind the bar!
what an amazing and educational experience!! It’s so nice that the distillery re-opened. I had never thought about the definition of moonshine but thought it was super cool that it meant doing something forbidden at night.
I had my first moonshine when we visited upstate New York. Fun to find a distillery in Mexico with the flavours of the Caribbean. And to find out more about moonshine on a great tour. I would certainly try Island Distilling Blackberry Moonshine with Sprite and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Yummy!
What is it they say…”when in Rome?” sounds like an unique experience… and very fun!
I love the sound of apple pie flavoured moonshine! It was fascinating to read about the history of moonshine
What an great post on the history and culture of Mexican moonshine. Thanks for sharing.